Argonauta - Rural lodging at the limits of Europe

Guidebooks

Thanks to the Argonauta’s extensive library, you can continue to explore places previously unknown to you, and to fully discover the history of this isolated outpost in the middle of the Atlantic, there is one person who has written numerous books: the founder of the Argonauta (1991), Pierluigi Bragaglia, who for over 26 years has been one of the few Italians to have published historical books in Portuguese and English: *Flores, Azores - Walking through History - A Guide to the Island’s Paths and Past* (2009), which is his latest work. He is the best person to guide you through the trails and sites of Flores.

On August 18, 2016, the Grande Rota das Flores was inaugurated; with the opening of the eastern routes, it now connects to the existing trails along the west coast. It begins in Santa Cruz das Flores (eastern region), heading north/northwest to Ponta Delgada (Stage 1 – 21 km route), a new trail waiting to be discovered. It then continues south (Stage 2 – 26 km route) through Fajã Grande, and ends in Lajedo (southwest), for a total length of 47 km. There are sections where the rocky ground can be slippery, so it is advisable to exercise caution and wear appropriate footwear. Falling rocks and boulders on some trails are not entirely uncommon, which is why we advise against listening to music while hiking. This route can be divided into two stages: the first, about 21 km long, is highly challenging, mainly due to the terrain’s topography, which constantly takes you through mountains, deep valleys, and high cliffs; the second, about 25 km long, is also highly challenging, initially taking you through areas at an altitude of 400 m, but without the steep ascents and descents of the first stage; however, it does feature some trails that may cause dizziness.
Italians to have published books in English and Portuguese: Flores, Azores - Walking through History - A guide to the island's paths and past (2009), is his last opera and at the same time is a good guide to the paths and not of Flores.

Piri Reis Map - Açores particular

Piri Reis Map dated 1513 - Particular of the Azores

STAGE 1 — This stage begins at the northern end of the airport runway. With Corvo on the horizon, turn left and follow the road to the elevated area of Beija Mão (above 300 m), where you can enjoy a view of the villages below. From here, the trail descends, passing through the Luís Paulo Camacho Recreational Forest Reserve and, further ahead, the hydroelectric power plant. Cross the dam and continue along a dirt path parallel to a levada (irrigation canal), heading toward the sea. When you reach the regional road, follow the trail markers—with the village of Fazenda on your right—toward Alagoa Bay. At this point, you are already at sea level, deep within a valley; continue along a rural road to your right, passing through a picnic area with views of the islets, and follow the coastline toward Cedros. Now, continue climbing the steep cliff to an altitude of over 300 m, cross this small parish, and descend slightly toward Ponta Ruiva, in the northeast of the island.
From here, the trail continues to Ponta Delgada along the coast, winding up and down through several sites of great natural beauty, such as Ponta das Barrosas—where the remains of an ancient settlement can be found—Cabouco, and Pico do Meio Dia. Along this route, you can admire various examples of endemic flora, such as Azores heather (Erica azorica), Azores picconia (Picconia azorica), and Azores holly (Ilex azorica). Now head down to the small coastal town of Ponta Delgada, pass by the Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Guia, and finish this section in the town center, next to the Casa do Povo.

STAGE 2 - Begin this stage at Casa do Povo, with Corvo Island on the horizon. Along the trail, whenever you need to go through a gate, be sure to close it behind you. There are some sections where the rocky ground can be slippery, and after days of heavy rain, the water levels along the riverbanks rise; it is advisable to exercise caution and wear appropriate footwear. Follow the road through pastures and farmland until it turns south. At this point, there is a turnoff to the right leading to the Ponta de Albernaz lighthouse. After visiting the lighthouse, continue south. With the islet of Maria da Vaz roughly on your right, leave the paved road and take the dirt/concrete road ahead of you, following the PR 01 FLO trail. Descend Rocha do Risco—be aware of the risk of vertigo—through a forested area with large Azores junipers (Juniperus brevifolia) until you reach Ponta da Fajã. Follow the trail markers, passing the turnoff to Poço do Bacalhau—a spot connected to other parts of the island via the PR 03 FLO trail (Miradouro das Lagoas/Poço do Bacalhau)—and continue to the center of Fajã Grande, where you can stop for a swim. Follow the trail markers along the base of the cliff on a rural path, and when you reach the main road, you’ll find a turnoff to your left leading to Lagoa dos Patos, a tourist attraction on the island. After taking the detour along the PR 02 FLO trail, return by the same path, pass a watermill, and continue to the right along a rural road parallel to the stream until you reach Fajãzinha. Cross the village, climb the hillside, and continue along the road, passing through once-inhabited sites such as Caldeira, until you reach the village of Mosteiro. Heading south, you’ll find, on your right, a lookout point offering views of the coast and Rocha dos Bordões, a geological formation known for its enormous vertical basalt columns. From here, the route continues south to Lajedo, passes by the lookout point, and continues to the center of the village, where it ends. Residents of Fajã Grande can also easily take a ride to the PR 01 FLO, the PR 02 FLO, or the Grande Rota, ending their walk back home in Fajã Grande.

To the south, near Lajes, the PR 04 FLO trail begins at the Punta de Lopo Vaz Lookout and continues along a single path to Fajã de Lopo Vaz. Start by descending a stone staircase flanked by endemic vegetation, such as Azores heather (Erica azorica), the fire tree (Morella faya), and the whitewood (Picconia azorica). After 1.25 km, near the first house, you’ll see a black-sand beach on your left. Follow the path to the right and pass by the remaining houses in the fajã (strip of land along the sea) until you reach a private property overlooking Ponta da Rocha Alta. At this point, return along the same path to the Fajã Viewpoint.

• Updated by Nadia Ferreira and Stéfano Folgaría on September 23, 2016, based on a single source: Azores Regional Tourism Directorate •